Florian and Marga are having Sunday lunch with her parents. Isa is going too because she is considered to be part of the family. Marga has, very kindly, invited me to join them.

We went to a winery which is three hundred years old. It still has its vineyards and produces various wines, however, the main house has been converted into a restaurant.

Ca N’Ayxela is in Santa Margarida i els Moujos, which is basically a completely rural area with nothing but vineyards and farms for miles around. This is reflected in the menu. The place was packed. Thankfully, Florian booked a table. No way would we have got in otherwise.

All of the vegetables, and I suspect all of the meat, are either locally sourced or from the estate itself. Their signature delicacy is gigantic spring onions called “calcot”. They are charred over an open wood fire and served on what resemble the terracotta tiles usually found on the crest of a roof. They are eaten by peeling off the outer layers and dipping the fleshy white interior stalk and bulb into Romesco sauce. Diners are given bibs (and often latex gloves) because eating them can be more than a little messy. Utterly delicious. Sweet and surprisingly juicy with just a hint of the familiar onion flavour.

Everything was amazing. The food, the setting, the company. I couldn’t have wished for a better way to spend my first Sunday in Spain.

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